Arbigland

http://portal.historic-scotland.gov.uk/hes/web/f?p=PORTAL:DESIGNATIONS:0

Type of Site

A designed landscape of parkland and woodland, near shores of the Solway Firth, with the later development of woodland and ornamental gardens.

Location and Setting

Arbigland is situated on the western shore of the Nith Estuary, overlooking the Solway Firth. The village of Kirkbean lies approximately 1 mile (2km) to the north- west. The A710 passes through Kirkbean in a loop around the Solway coast and continues north to the town of Dumfries, some 12.5 miles (20km) away. The surrounding landscape of the flat coastal plain is agricultural. The nature of the landscape and the setting of the house, some 500 yards from the shore, provide extensive views across the Solway Firth to the Lake District. The woodlands of the designed landscape of Arbigland are highly significant in the local scenery.

Arbigland House stands within some 662 acres (268ha) of designed landscape which extends north to Tallowquhairn, south to Powillimount Cottages, east to the Solway coast and west to policy shelterbelts which line the minor road from Kirkbean to Southerness.

Documentary evidence of the development of the designed landscape is provided by General Roy's map of c.1750, the 1st edition OS of c.1860, the 2nd edition of c.1900 and the modern edition. Comparison of this evidence indicates that the extent of the policies has remained relatively unaltered since the mid-18th century. The designed landscape includes not only the main 'core' of the policies around the house but also extensive areas of farmland which were improved with consideration given to their design. The views to the sea have been a considerable influence in the landscape development.

Landscape Components

Architectural Features

Arbigland House was built in 1755. It is a classical mansion thought to have been designed by the owner, William Craik, since Craik is known to have acted as an architect elsewhere. It is a two-storey house with raised basement and attic, flanked by twin wings; the porch on the south front was added c.1840. The former stable- block, listed B, dates from 1680; it is a rectangular enclosure which incorporates a doocot over the entrance archway. The gatepiers on the main drive entrance were built in 1805 by Allan Cunningham, a local stonemason. The kitchen garden walls are known to have been built prior to 1745. The house, stable-block, gatepiers and walled garden form an A category group. Individually, the house is listed category A and the other features category B.

The House on the Shore was built between 1934-36 as a dower house on the site of a former gardener's cottage; a Sundial stands on the lawn of the private garden associated with this house. Other garden ornamentation, sited in various locations in the garden, has been collected from various sources by the present owners. Paul Jones Cottage, listed category A, is an early/mid-18th century, single-storey T-shaped cottage situated to the south of the main drive entrance. A tall, gabled south wing was added in the 19th century.

Parkland

The parkland extends north from the house to Borron Hill and, to a much less extent, south from the house between the woodlands. A ha-ha separates the north park from the garden around the house.

Reference to the 1st edition OS indicates that the north park extended only as far as Canabony. Of greater importance to the Craiks until then was a view of the agricultural improvements which had been made. The present extent is emphasised by woodland shelter strips added since the mid-19th century which extend from the house to Borron Hill. Several oak trees remain from the original mid-18th century parkland planting.

Woodland

The main woodland areas are situated to the west and south of the house and gardens although there are other strips laid out for the purpose of shelter. The absence of large-scale woodland cover on Roy's map of c.1750 indicates that the woodlands post- date this time. They may have been established by William Craik in the course of his later 18th century improvements although few trees remain from this time to confirm this. The majority of trees date from c.1810 and include specimens of oak, beech, ash and lime. The woodland structure was established by the survey of the 1st edition OS in c.1860. Comparison of it with the 2nd edition of 1910 shows some additional planting was carried out in the latter years of the 19th century, for example in the area between the south park and Paul Jones Cottage. Since then, this particular area has been felled and the ground reclaimed for agriculture. In doing so, the view to the south has been restored but the shelter which the wood provided has been lost. Exposure to the south-west winds has been a great influence in the choice of species for new planting in the woods at Arbigland. Younger stock is generally mixed deciduous, oak, ash, sycamore or beech with a conifer nurse crop to ensure successful establishment.

Woodland Garden

The woodland garden is situated to the east of the house bounded on the south by mature woodland and the walled garden, and to the north by the park. It was created out of mature woodland, established since the 18th century. 'Broad Walk', formerly the carriage drive between the stables and the Old Hall, runs through the garden; it is now grassed down. A roundel of beech trees, now in decline, stands midway along the walk. Another feature of the garden is the pond created by William Craik in the course of extensive land drainage on the estate. An island was created in the centre of the pond some ten years ago. To the west of the pond is 'Japan', created, according to contemporary account books, in the late 19th/early 20th century. At this time, the stone bridges were constructed and much of the ornamental planting was established including fine Rhododendron specimens and those of Eucryphia and Cercidiphyllum, etc. The grandmother of the present owner was especially interested in plants and it was she who built up the collection over a period of fifty years after World War I. The plant collection is being expanded by the present owners and is now mapped and catalogued.

The Gardens

The ornamental gardens are situated at the south-east corner of the woodland garden. The sunken rose garden was laid out c.1920 on the site of the former Arbigland Hall. It is laid out in a regular formal pattern with triangular beds and borders filled with hybrid tea roses. Following the completion of the 'House on the Shore' in 1936, the terraces were laid out adjacent to it, filled with numerous ornamental shrubs. At that time too, the heath bank was established with heathers and dwarf rhododendrons and other associated plants.

Walled Garden

The kitchen garden is situated to the south-east of the house and is known to have been constructed prior to 1745; its walls are listed category B. The enclosure created is of particular interest since it is an unusual octagon shape. Paths cross the interior of the garden to form four equal triangles. A pond once formed the central feature. The main entrance gate is at the north-west corner. The path down the north- west/south-east axis from this gate extends to twin circular apple houses which frame the view of the highest peak in the Lake District. The interior of the garden is now derelict. There are remains of the original glasshouses, and fruit trees still line the inner walls.