Cawdor Castle

http://portal.historic-scotland.gov.uk/hes/web/f?p=PORTAL:DESIGNATIONS:0

Type of Site

A magnificent composition of designed landscape layers with informal parkland dating from the mid 19th century evolved from 18th century beginnings, woodlands, some managed continuously over a period of 350 years with dramatic gorge paths and woodland walks, a woodland or 'wild' garden created under the canopy of a mid-19th-century pinetum and flower garden first laid out in 1720 and further developed in the 20th century.

Location and Setting

Cawdor Castle is situated off the B9090 on the outskirts of the village of Cawdor some 5 miles (8km) south-west of Nairn and some 13 miles (21km) north east of Inverness. It lies on the Cawdor Burn, a tributary of the River Nairn, in the northern foothills of the Grampians overlooking the river valley. To the south the rising moorland borders the designed landscape and a minor road from Cawdor to Kirkton of Barevan and Newlands of Inchnacaorach surrounds Cawdor Wood. The Castle lies just above the alluvial plain of the River Nairn and the soil in the Gardens is a good loam. The climate is slightly affected by the Gulf Stream which curls around the north of Scotland. The annual rainfall is low, about 30" (773mm). On the north side the rich plain of Strathnairn is farmed and to the south the land is mainly heather moorland. Woodland runs along the river valley and Cawdor Wood forms part of that belt. There are long views to the north and north-east across the Moray Firth and to the Highland uplands beyond. The deciduous canopy of Cawdor Wood contributes variety to the surrounding scenery especially from Strathnairn.

Cawdor Castle lies at the northern tip of the policies overlooking Cawdor Burn and the village. The designed landscape is encircled by the lanes from Cawdor village. The policies were laid out in the mid-18th century; the formal design can be seen on a survey of 1782. The park was modified in the mid-19th century and its extent can be seen on the 1st edition OS plan of 1869. It has remained unchanged and covers an area of about 815 acres (330 ha). Research into the family papers has not been undertaken for this study.

Landscape Components

Architectural Features

The central tower of Cawdor Castle, listed category A, was probably remodelled in the mid-15th century. In the 16th century the north and west wings were built forming the courtyard. Between 1660 - 1674 these wings were largely rebuilt. In 1848 the Castle was restored and remodelled by Thomas Mackenzie who died in 1854. In 1858 the courtyard was enclosed by an additional wing built by James Matthew who may have followed his deceased partner's scheme. There were further additions by Alexander Ross in 1884.

The Flower Garden or Walled Garden, listed category B, contains a small portion of medieval wall but most of the walls were rebuilt in the late 18th century. The Lower Garden, or Kitchen Garden, listed with the Flower Garden, also contains some medieval walls and was also rebuilt in the 19th century. The Gate Lodge and Entrance are individually listed as category B but are listed category A as a group with the Castle. The arched Entrance Gate was built in the 18th century and a portion of the old Castle wall is incorporated into the round-headed entrance which has a pair of studded doors. The Lodge was built in the 19th century. The Home Farm, listed category B, was also built in the late 18th century with some later 19th century additions.

Parkland

The first park was probably laid out by Sir Hugh, the 15th Thane, and his son Archibald at the turn of the 18th century. There are several old trees dating from this period including a magnificent oak near the Lodge. A survey dated 1782 shows an avenue to the north of the Castle and a long canal or lochan to the east. Both have now gone.

By the 1st edition OS of 1869, the parks had been planted up in a looser and more informal style and there were several specimen trees planted in them especially at the southern end near Tomnaghuail Wood. Just to the south of the Flower Garden on the 1st edition OS plan, there are lines of trees forming a second rectangle slightly larger than the Walled Garden. The southern park appears to be unfenced and the drives curve gently through the open pasture. The Deer Park lies in the northern section running from the Castle to the Change House. There are few trees in it and red deer were imported from Islay and by 1725 there were '18 or 19' in the park. Most of these changes to the parks were probably carried out in the mid 19th century by the 1st Earl and much of his planting remains, particularly some fine specimens of beech.

The trees near Tomnaghuail Wood have been incorporated into a new plantation in a long finger-like shape. The pasture has been fenced into smaller units. The car park is situated just to the south of the Flower Garden under the few remaining trees of the rectangular feature. On the east side of the park near the Home Farm, a pitch and putt course has been laid out. The pasture to the south of the Castle and the Deer Park is grazed.

Woodland

The woodland is divided by the Riereach Burn and the Auchindoune Burn tributaries of Cawdor Burn, into the Big Wood of Cawdor. Some of the oldest trees are in the triangle where the two burns meet and here there are several beech trees planted in about 1720. The eastern side of Big Wood was planted with Scots pines between 1790 - 1792 on reclaimed moorland. Most of the silver birch have been thinned out but some older ones remain. There are small blocks of conifers especially along the eastern side which include Noble firs, Norway spruces, Douglas firs and Scots pines. Riereach Burn narrows into a deep gorge only about 50' wide near the 'Hermitage'. This folly is marked on all the OS plans but was not found during the survey. Footpaths run along both sides of the gorge and were probably laid out in the late 18th century when the park was redesigned. These are now used as nature trails.

Cawdor Wood, of over 750 acres, has been continuously managed since at least 1650. Within it there are plantations of different varieties and the trees within them are of different ages. Along the Burns and near the Castle several fine ornamental trees were planted in the late 19th century and these include an enormous Wellingtonia, several Monkey puzzles, limes and the upright Camperdown elms. There are several young plantations of mixed conifers and hardwoods such as beech with larch and Noble fir with Juniper. The native Juniper grows as an understorey especially in the central area where it grows with sessile oak and birch. This natural woodland may have been growing at Cawdor for a long time. Pure stands, particularly of beech and larch, have also been used in other plantations. Cawdor is renowned for the quality of its larch many of which have grown with tall straight trunks. The Greystone Bridge crosses the Auchindoune Burn over another shallow gorge.

Woodland Garden

A pinetum was planted along the banks of Cawdor Burn in the mid-19th century, and in the 1960s a 'Wild Garden' was set out under some of the tall trees. The high arched bridge was built in the late 19th century and a photograph in a 1904 Country Life article shows many of the younger trees and the small Rhododendrons. Many of the conifers have grown well in the shelter and dampness of the narrow valley of the burn. The Wild Garden is full of Rhododendrons, Azaleas and small trees such as Snakebark maples and berried Sorbus. Colourful Primulas and spring bulbs carpet the banks.

The Gardens

The Flower Garden is also known as the Walled Garden. Part of the wall is said to be medieval but most was built or rebuilt at the end of the 18th century. Records indicate that the garden was enclosed and laid out in 1720 by Sir Archibald Campbell, son of the 15th Thane. Seed lists, mainly for vegetables, have been found. In 1681 vegetable seeds were being imported and a number of these varieties increased. These may have been grown in the Lower Garden. By 1725, according to his own report, Archibald wrote that he had 'levelled a considerable piece of ground a part whereof was a deep morrass and the rest a hill, of which he has made a handsome garden where all sorts of fruit grow that are in Scotland'.

Little is known about this garden in the 18th century when the family were absent. In 1850 plans for the garden were drawn up and Lady Cawdor, wife of the 1st Earl, designed the oval rose borders near the Castle and the drawing showed long rows of gooseberries running towards the southern end. This layout can be seen in the Garden today and some of the paths depicted on the plan still divide it into regular compartments. The photographs in the Country Life article of 1904 show the rectangular garden divided into symmetrical compartments bordered by neat gravel paths. Today grass has replaced some of the subsidiary paths. In the photographs, each compartment was filled with plants, either colourful flowers or rows of vegetables and no lawn could be seen. An arched walk stood on the east side. Most of this layout has been kept but the planting has been changed, except for some large yews.

Today, roses are still grown in the ovals surrounded by lavender. Some of the compartments also have flowers such as perennials and small shrubs. In others, yew hedges enclose grass lawns. Some fruits still grow up the walls but all the vegetables have been removed to the Lower Garden. From the Castle, and especially from the roof, the view over these colourful gardens is spectacular. On either side of the drive, which leads up to the dramatic drawbridge entrance, are large expanses of lawn. Grass also covers the steep banks of the old moat to the north of the Castle.

Walled Garden

To the north east of the Castle, the enclosed Lower Garden or Kitchen Garden is cut into the bank. Parts of the retaining stone walls can be dated to the medieval period but most are thought to be 18th century. The Garden is shaped in a long rectangle and it is shown on the 1st edition OS as an orchard. By the 20th century it was used to grow vegetables but these were drastically reduced in the 1970s. In 1981 Lord Cawdor designed and planted a holly maze in the northern section. There are proposals to replant the southern sections as a medieval garden with an orchard similar in style to the one mentioned in 1635.