Invercauld

http://portal.historic-scotland.gov.uk/hes/web/f?p=PORTAL:DESIGNATIONS:0

Location and Setting

Invercauld is situated in the Dee Valley some 12.5 miles (20km) west of Ballater and 4 miles (6.5km) north-east of Braemar. It is sheltered to the north and south by the high hills of the Grampians and the River Dee meanders through the broad valley of Braemar. The underlying geology is of granite and limestone, and above the wooded lower slopes are extensive tracts of moor and mountain. The house is situated at c.1100' (335m) above sea-level and the climate here is severe in winter with some of the lowest recorded temperatures in recent years. The house commands extensive and splendid views of the Dee Valley and the Grampian Mountains. The house is conspicuous in the view from the summit of Lochnagar and the parkland is very visible from the A93 to Braemar.

The extent of the designed landscape has remained similar since the 18th century according to available map evidence and extends from Inverchandlich Cottage in the west, to East Lodge near the old Bridge of Dee in the east. The policies extend south of the river to Braemar Castle in the west, although this area belonged to the Earl of Mar's neighbouring estate until 1715.

While the extent of the design has remained similar over the years, the layout has changed. A wall map of c.1750 at the house shows a formal design for the policies, with paths radiating through the parks from the house down to the river and continuing on the opposite side of the river and up through the wooded slopes towards the Lion's Face Rock. Serpentine paths wind through the parks and to the north of the house. A kitchen garden is shown to the south- east of the house and so are two ponds.

General Roy's plan of 1750 shows that a simplified form of this plan was actually laid out regardless of the local topography, which rises steeply to the south of the river. The 1st edition OS map of 1869 shows woodland plantations to the north of the house, but shows the woodlands to the south as unenclosed. A pond is shown to the south-east of the house as marked on the 1753 map.

By 1869 the landscape design has been changed from formal to informal, with clumps and roundels of trees in the parks and many individual parkland trees as well. A large lozenge-shaped formal garden is shown to the west of the house subdivided into two along its west/east axis with a glasshouse on the north wall. A summerhouse is shown to the north-east of the house and there were several cottages in the policies, including Balnagower Cottage to the north of the Invercauld Monument. By the time of the 2nd edition OS map of c.1910 the pond to the south of the house is shown as a marshy area and the lozenge-shaped garden has disappeared. A smaller rectangular garden is shown to the west of the house in its place. There are 1,423 acres (576ha) in the designed landscape today.

Landscape Components

Architectural Features

Invercauld House is a large mid-18th century Baronial residence with additions in 1820, 1847, 1875 and 1890. It is three storeys in height, with a castellated tower rising to 70', and is listed B.

Keiloch Cottage built in 1820 is listed C. Old Invercauld Bridge built in 1753 and now closed, is listed A. Alltdourie Cottage is listed B. Other architectural features in the policies include the Stables, Game Larder, the Ice House, the Kennels, Balnagower Cottage, Invercauld Monument and Clunie Cottage. There is also a small rustic Summerhouse or fog-house, with a moss roof, along the woodland ride to the north of the house.

Parkland

A sketch of Invercauld in 1810 shows fine individual deciduous parkland trees in the parks south of the house down to the river. Many of these have since gone, but there are distinctive clumps of trees in the park today which are very visible from the main A93 road to the south of the river. These are mainly planted up with larch, the tree for which Invercauld was famous in the 18th century. The house is set on a broad terrace above the park, below which there are the outlines of a square enclosure, possibly a former garden layout. A very long and attractive drive approaches the house from the East Lodge, past the nursery and the pond shown on the 1st edition OS map. There are many tracks and rides through the woodlands to the north of the house, some of which would have been used as woodland drives. Lady Carr's Drive is planted with an avenue of Purple Beech. The parks are grazed today with Highland Cattle and sheep.

Woodland

The policy woodlands are mainly copses of birch, and plantations of larch and Scots pine. There are planted roundels, avenues and individual trees in the parks, and extensive tracks of commercial plantations through the estate. Some of the Scots Pines are thought to be 3-400 years old. The Forest of Mar was famous in the past and the woods have been described many times in historical accounts; in one, as 'the woods are at the same time grand, gloomy and beautiful'. Much replanting has been undertaken since the severe gale damage of 1953.

Woodland Garden

The gardens lie immediately to the west of the house, on the site of the formal garden shown on the 1st edition OS map. Today the garden is informal in character and sheltered by specimen trees put in from the late 19th century onwards. There is a fine weeping beech and a younger copper beech, a Thuja plicata and Wellingtonia. Under the canopy of the larger trees is a range of shrubs and smaller ornamental trees, and mown lawns leading up to the water garden. A small burn runs through the garden and is crossed by little, rustic bridges; a pond has been formed with a central fountain and planted round with water-loving species such as Hostas.

Above the water garden is a raised terrace and steps which lead up to the glasshouse, mainly used for growing pot plants for the house. Cut flowers are grown for Braemar Castle as well as Invercauld House.

Walled Garden

To the west of the woodland garden is the kitchen garden which is divided into compartments used mainly for growing vegetables and fruit. Fine herbaceous borders extend along one of the dividing paths with trellis lining the borders. There is a central flower bed with a sundial.