Terrace and Buccleuch Gardens

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Terrace Gardens and Buccleuch Gardens (collectively known as Terrace and Buccleuch Gardens) is a public park and made up of the grounds of three C18 and C19 estates. The grounds of Buccleuch House and Landsdowne House were initially consolidated by the Duke of Buccleuch in the 1860s and became a public park in 1887. The grounds of neighbouring Cardigan House were added in the 1920s. None of these houses is still standing but the C19 layout of their gardens is still very much in evidence.

DESCRIPTION

LOCATION, AREA, BOUNDARIES, LANDFORM, SETTING

Terrace and Buccleuch Gardens are situated on the east bank of the River Thames, c 700m upstream from Richmond Bridge. The c 5ha site is divided by Petersham Road into two parts: Buccleuch Gardens, the triangular riverside plain west of the public road; and the hillside east of it, known as the Terrace Gardens, which occupy an irregular, elongated site running approximately north-south, rising steeply from the river.

Buccleuch Gardens is bounded to the north by the former Three Pigeons Inn, (87 Petersham Road) to the west by the banks of the River Thames, to the south by an iron fence on a bank dividing the land from Petersham Meadow, and to the east by a brick wall alongside Petersham Road.

Terrace Gardens are bounded to the west by a wall surmounted by railings alongside Petersham Road and by Langham Lodge (144-146 Petersham Road), and to the south and east by Terrace Field. The northern boundary is composed of plain spiked C20 iron railings backed up by shrubs. To the east, the boundary of the Gardens is defined by the brick retaining wall which separates the Gardens from the pavement on Richmond Hill. The wall between Cardigan Gate and Friars Stile Gate is C20; the stretch to the south of this to the boundary with Terrace Walk (qv) is comprised of C18 and C19 walls which formed part of the boundaries of Landsdowne House and its estate.

The tree-lined Richmond Terrace Walk (qv), which lies outside this registered landscape, runs from the south-east corner of this site, extending south-east along the ridge of Richmond Hill. The Terrace Walk, although laid out in the C17, did not form part of the design of the estate gardens which comprise Terrace and Buccleuch Gardens and is managed as a separate entity by Richmond Borough Council.

Some sections of the C19 brick walls which divided the former private estates remain: one on the east part of the boundary with Terrace Field, a second on the former boundary of Lansdowne House with Cardigan House.

The setting to the north, west, and east is composed of suburban areas of Richmond and Twickenham, and in particular, distinguished C18 and early C19 houses overlooking Richmond Hill and approaching Richmond Park (PAG Grade I). Terrace Gardens lie alongside, and frame the view from Richmond Hill, designated as Richmond Terrace Walk, (PAG Grade II*) which is, significantly, protected by Act of Parliament (1902), which was an important landmark in the history of conservation and the amenity movement. To the south the open spaces of Terrace Field, Petersham Meadows and Ham Common lead to Ham House (qv); to the south-west, across the River Thames lie Marble Hill (qv), Orleans House gardens, and York House (qv), and to the south east, beyond Petersham Common, lies Richmond Park (qv). The history and context of Terrace and Buccleugh Gardens add to its group value as one of the interlocking landscapes flanking the River Thames between Kew and Hampton Court.

ENTRANCES AND APPROACHES

Terrace Gardens is approached from the east off Richmond Hill through four gates through the boundary wall leading into the terrace at the summit of the gardens. From north to south, these have been named by Richmond Borough Council as follows: Cardigan Gate - the C20 entrance at the north-east corner of the park on Richmond Hill; Friars Stile Gate; Landsdowne Gate - a flight of steps opposite the end of Friars Stile Road in the position of the historic entrance to Landsdowne House; Terrace Gate - a flight of steps adjacent to the Park Keeper's Hut (qv) leading up to Richmond Terrace Walk (qv).

Continuing clockwise around the perimeter of the Gardens, three further gates lead on to Terrace Field at the south, one in the centre of the south-east boundary (late C19 iron gate within an arch in the brick wall), called Field Gate. Grove Gate, a new gate (2009) through fencing which cuts through the former grounds of Buccleuch House along the top of a steep east-west scarp in the grounds. This gate and fence do not define the boundaries of the registered landscape, which includes the former wilderness garden to the south. The south-west corner of Terrace Gardens (where the wilderness garden is located) is reached from the entrance onto Terrace Field (qv) from Petersham Road. At the north-west corner of the gardens is a late C18 or early C19 pair of brick gate piers with ball finials, called Three Pigeons Gate, which leads onto Petersham Road opposite the former Three Pigeons Inn.

Buccleuch Gardens and Terrace Gardens are connected by a flint-lined, barrel-vaulted tunnel under Petersham Road (qv) (probably C18, remodelled C19, listed Grade II), now known as Grotto Gate. Approaching from the Terrace side, there are two symmetrical, semi-circular flights of steps leading down to the mouth of the tunnel. These are framed by C20 steel or wrought iron gates and fencing. On the Buccleuch Gardens side, the tunnel opens out to three bays with rusticated arches, which are lined with coloured stones (flint and slag). Set into the back wall of the two external arches are two pieces of antiquarian sculpture. The keystones in the arches appear to be reused gargoyles (scuppers), perhaps reused from earlier structures on the site.

A private, gated tunnel under the Petersham Road connects Langham Lodge to Buccleuch Gardens remains from when Langham Lodge and Buccleuch House were one property, separated by the road.

Buccleuch Gardens are approached from the north and south by the Thames Path. Access from Petersham Road has been opened up at the north-east corner of the Gardens, next to the former Three Pigeons Inn, on the site of a former slipway to the Thames. There are two further entrances onto Petersham Road at the south-east corner of the Gardens.

GARDENS AND PLEASURE GROUNDS

The C19 path system in Terrace Gardens still reflects the historic garden layout and the boundaries of the three estates which make up the site. The slopes of Terrace Gardens are provided with a network of sinuous paths that run approximately parallel to the contours of the hillside, connected by stairways. According to historic maps, the layout of the paths is largely unchanged since at least the early C19, parts of Buccleuch House estate may be earlier. Low brick retaining walls (late C19 to early C20) line the uphill sides of the paths. The paths themselves, which have been refurbished, 2009-10, are covered with asphalt, gravel or concrete with some crazy-paving. Mature trees survive across the park, while specimen trees were also planted during the later C19 and C20. The steep slopes and the perimeter of Terrace Gardens are densely planted with trees and shrubs, lending the gardens a secluded character, and the lawns are planted with scattered mature trees and beds.

Cardigan House Grounds:

In the former grounds of Cardigan House, now the northernmost part of Terrace Gardens, stands a C19 brick-built icehouse, cut into the hillside and redesigned in the later C19 as an ornamental garden feature, decorated with seashells and what appears to be slag. This structure may predate Cardigan House and date from the period of Richmond Wells (1696-1763), but it is not possible to say with certainty as it has been so altered.

A rebuilt C21 wooden shelter with a wood-tiled roof is situated to the west of the eastern perimeter path on the former boundary between Cardigan House and Lansdowne House. Located on the site of previous rustic, thatched garden shelters, it looks out over internal vistas of the park, looking south. A rock garden laid out in 1928 surrounds the shelter. It overlooks a small rosary, set on gently falling ground. At the upper end of the rosary stands a much-restored sundial, a remnant of the old Buccleuch estate garden ornaments. In the centre of the rosary stands a stone well-head found in the grounds, now used as a planter.

A few metres to the south of the icehouse is a carved Fishmarker Stone set on a stone plinth. Moved here from its original location on the river, this stone was historically used as a fare stage for navigators on the Thames informing them of the distance to Westminster Bridge from Richmond (14¾ miles).

Landsdowne House Grounds:

A late C19 terrace, reworked in the early to mid-C20 and recently restored, and laid out on the site of the former Lansdowne House, overlooks the gardens at the head of the site. On the upper platform of this terrace is a round pond with a Portland stone statue of Aphrodite (also known locally as ‘Bulbous Betty'). This statue, carved and presented to Richmond Council by A Howes in 1952, replaced a late C19 cast-iron fountain. To the east, this upper terrace is bounded by an early C19 brick wall with a five-bay arcade. A drinking fountain of 1887 is set into the middle bay. The terrace and walk above it are enclosed by brick balustrades with reconstituted stone rails. On either side of this terrace are sloping paths leading up to the upper walkway, which is backed by a brick retaining wall of C18 and C19 date. This in turn leads to the northern end of Terrace Walk, reached by stone steps, adjacent to which is a small green-painted kiosk known as the Park Keeper's Hut (c 1900, listed Grade II). A disused two-storey brick toilet block (c 1930) is situated at the south-east corner of Terrace Gardens.

Buccleuch House Grounds:

Historically, the grounds of Buccleuch House gardens extended on both sides of Petersham Road.

On the eastern side of Petersham Road, behind Langham Lodge and the former stables and service yard to Buccleuch House, is ‘the wilderness' garden - a series of sinuous paths and steps, lined in brick and stone, some possible fabricated stone, and running through a densely shrubbed and wooded area down the slope from the southernmost end of the Terrace Gardens. The plan of these paths, which survives today, can be clearly seen on maps of the Buccleuch estate from at least 1868 and may predate this, and relate to Montagu House.

A thatched tea house is situated in the centre of Terrace Gardens on the site of the Duke of Montagu's summerhouse. The existing building which dates to the late C19, gives onto a terrace protected by an early-C20 wooden roof. The terrace provides views over the Thames and from here a lawn sweeps down the slope to Grotto Gate and the perimeter path of the gardens. Set on the slope to the west of the tea house and surrounded by a protective hedge stands a Coade stone figure of Father Thames (John Bacon 1775, listed Grade II), facing the lawn below. The statue is thought to be a survivor from the statuary of the Montagu pleasure grounds and was moved here from its former location some metres to the south-east after major restoration works in the 1990s.

At the north-west corner of this part of the gardens, not far from Three Pigeons Gate, is a conservatory with a small service yard behind. The present conservatory replaces a series of C19 and C20 conservatories on the same site and marked on historic maps. In the back wall of the conservatory sits a carved stone relief of Adam and Eve at the Apple tree with the snake. This is said to be a remnant from the Landsdowne estate.

Buccleuch Gardens Grounds:

Buccleuch Gardens, on the western side of Petersham Road on the banks of the Thames, consist of a lawn which is bordered to the east by a single path which forms part of the Thames Path. The sudden change of slope running north-south along the riverbank in the Gardens marks the flood line of the Thames. The Gardens feature a number of mature plane trees and are screened from Petersham Road by shrubberies alongside the dividing brick wall. On that boundary, opposite Langham Lodge, is a brick shelter (c 1930s) built on the site of Buccleuch House, which was demolished in the 1930s. To the south, surviving arcades from the house are used for storage and a private tunnel leads under the road to Langham Lodge. At the entrance stands a late C20 drinking fountain. A fenced-off area on the southern boundary divides the Gardens from Petersham Meadow.

The public highway, Petersham Road, is excluded from the registered park and garden.

Views:

The views within the Terrace Gardens are many and varied, and several are remarkably similar to those described in 1887. They are predominantly internal views, with the panoramic vistas over the Thames being reserved only for the uppermost parts of the gardens. From the uppermost terrace along the top of Richmond Hill, above the former site of Landsdowne House, there are panoramic views downhill across the curve of the Thames to Marble Hill and Twickenham and Surrey in the distance. Further north along this terrace, near Friar's Stile Gate, there is a view of the River Thames, framed by mature trees. The river can be glimpsed through trees from the terrace above the rock garden, but historically this view was an internal vista, framed by mature vegetation. Further vistas within the grounds can be found from the steps to Grotto Gate looking up through the gardens towards the top of Richmond Hill, from across the lawn looking north towards the Conservatory and from the lawn north of the tea house looking up towards the wooden shelter. In Buccleuch Gardens, there are good vistas both up and down river, framed by specimen trees.

REFERENCES

Daniel Lysons, Environs of London,1796

Thames Valley Times, Terrace Gardens Number, Part 2, 1 June 1887

Richmond and Twickenham Times, 28 March 1959; 12 May 1962

Blest Retreats, A history of private gardens in Richmond upon Thames, Richmond upon Thames Library and Information Services, 1984

Terrace Gardens Centenary, Souvenir Brochure,1987

London Borough of Richmond upon Thames, Terrace Gardens and Buccleuch Gardens Management Plan, 2009-2014

Thames Landscape Strategy www.thames-landscape-strategy.org.uk (accessed 5 Nov 2010)

McEwen, R, Princes, Prime Ministers and Pre-Raphaelites, Terrace Gardens and the Duke of Buccleuch (2010)

Maps:

John Roque, Map of Twenty Miles Around London, surveyed 1741-5, published 1746

OS 6" to 1 mile: 1st edition surveyed 1863-6, published 1869; 2nd edition published 1897; 1933 edition

Illustrations:

L Knyff, A View from Richmond Terrace, c1720

Peter Tillemans, View from Richmond House, c1730 (private collection)

Richmond, From the Duchess of Buccleuch's Garden, Rodwell & Martin, 1822

The Duke of Buccleuch's Villa, Richmond, (Engraving for Brayley's History of Surrey 1844)

Archival items:

Minutes of Council meeting, 12 March 1926, Richmond upon Thames Library and Information Services

REASONS FOR DESIGNATION

Terrace and Buccleuch Gardens are designated at Grade II for the following principal reasons:

* Historic plan: the late C18 and early C19 design and plan of the gardens, both in separate and then joint ownership is still clearly visible in the layout of the grounds - in particular the path system and location of borders and mature trees.

* Planting: the gardens were purposely designed to be secluded and enclosed, a historic characteristic which dates from the C18 and indicated by surviving specimen trees and shrubs;

* Historic interest: association with significant historical and political figures of C18 and C19, notably the Duke of Buccleuch; acquisition by Richmond Vestry and context ofthe Act of Parliament (1902), an important landmark in the history of the conservation of landscapes and of the amenity movement.

* Setting: the gardens frame the important historic view from Richmond Hill (Richmond Terrace Walk, registered Grade II*) which was protected by Act of Parliament (1902); views within the gardens and across the grounds, with outward views to the River Thames and Surrey from the top of the Gardens; group value as one of the interlocking landscapes along the River Thames between Kew and Hampton Court.

Description written: March 2000

Amended August 2001

Amended: November 2010