Tyninghame

The following is from the Historic Environment Scotland Gardens and Designed Landscapes Inventory. For the most up-to-date Inventory entry, please visit the Historic Environment Scotland website:

Location and Setting

Tyninghame is situated off the A198 some 2 miles (3km) east of East Linton, and some 4 miles (6.5km) north-west of Dunbar. It lies about half a mile from the northern banks of the estuary of the River Tyne and about the same distance west from the seashore and Ravensheugh Sands. The designed landscape includes Binning Wood and Brownrigg Wood to the north and is bordered to the east by the A198 and to the south by the River Tyne. Lying on the sandy estuary, the site is mainly covered with light sandy loam, which has been improved in the garden areas over many years. There is a low annual rainfall. Woodland protects the gardens and fields from the salt- laden and cold easterly winds blowing across the North Sea. The surrounding landscape is mainly farmed and many of the fields are protected by small woodland shelterbelts or hedgerows. There are long views south to the Lammermuir Hills and panoramic views north-east across the estuary to the rocky promontory of Dunbar. In this rather flat landscape the woodland canopy contrasts with the open parkland. Both can be seen from the nearby major roads including the A1 and A198 coast road and the designed landscape contributes significantly to the local scenery.

Lying in the middle of the southern section of the park, Tyninghame House overlooks the estuary which also forms the southern boundary. Except on the east side where the designed landscape is bordered by the sea, the remaining two sides are edged by woodland.

The Haddington records and estate plans have not been consulted for this report. Information on the extent of the early 18th century designed landscape relies on General Roy's plan of c.1750 which also shows the planting undertaken by the 6th Earl. The 1st edition OS plan of 1854 and the 2nd edition of 1895 show the mid and late 19th century changes but the overall size of about 2,407 acres (974 ha), has remained unaltered since the 18th century.

The designed landscape to the north of the house is based on the regular formal framework laid out in the early 18th century. This consists of three avenues or walks running east/west for over a mile. The avenues are linked by woodland strips or hedges which divide the area between them into several parks and policy fields. The straight A198 which runs from Tyninghame village to Whitekirk is the western boundary apart from Binning Wood, to the west. The southern park between the house and the estuary was replanted in the 19th century in a more informal style and this informality also spreads to the park just to the north of the house

Landscape Components

Architectural Features

Tyninghame House, listed category A, was remodelled by William Burn between 1829-30 around 'a plain Scottish Mansion of large size' (Small's 'Castle and Mansions'). He refaced the original 17th century house, probably built by the 1st Earl, and created the new romantic outline in the 'Baronial Revival' style. Burn added the porch and in 1961 the heraldic doorpiece was replaced by W. Schomberg Scott. In the courtyard there is a Venetian well head, dated 1586, with the winged lion of St. Mark.

The Stables, built by William Burn in about 1833 around a courtyard, and some older buildings including the 18th century Water Tower are all listed category C. The ruined St Baldred's Church, listed category A and a Scheduled Monument, was first built in the 12th century as the parish church. It continued in use until the village was moved and the parishes joined in 1761. When it was excavated in 1930, remains of the early English settlement were found. The two ruined arches now act as a romantic folly on the edge of the formal garden.

The Walled Garden was enclosed in 1761. The ground was formally the site of the Manse and Glebe. The doorway is made up of pieces dating from the 17th and 18th centuries and was removed from the house in the 19th century. There are also classical statues of the 20th century and a 19th century replica of the 17th century Newbattle Abbey elaborate sundial.

The Obelisk, listed category (S) was erected in 1856, by the 9th Earl in memory of Thomas, the 6th Earl and his wife, Helen. The inscription is lengthy and praises their planting which was 'on an extensive scale'. Tyninghame Links Farm Buildings, the Lodge and Kennels were all probably built in the 19th century.

Tyninghame Lodge and Arch of the 1830s are attributed by Colin MacWilliam to W. Burns. The Factor's House and the Doocot, both listed category C(S), are late 18th century buildings. Most of Tyninghame Village is listed category C as the cottages were remodelled as a 'model village' by Thomas Hannan between 1836 - 1857. Tyninghame Bridge crossing the River Tyne just to the south of the Lodge was built by Andrew Meikle in 1778 and widened in 1931 by the engineers, Blyth & Blyth.

Parkland

The parks were originally laid out in the 17th century and were improved between 1700 and 1737 by the 6th Earl of Haddington when he laid out the formal design which can be seen on General Roy's plan of 1750. The designed landscape was laid out on a grid pattern with three long avenues forming the main axes running east/west from the sea to Binning Wood. These were crossed by a series of woodland strips or holly hedges. According to E.H.M. Cox in his 'History of Gardening in Scotland', these hedges were planted in about 1705 and amounted to nearly 3,000 yards (2,699m) in 1835. Some, planted in double rows, protected the gardens. In 1900, a gardening article comments that many were suffering from a fungal disease and today there are only a few single trees left of this magnificent feature. The avenues still exist: the southern one, called the Avenue is planted with beech and the Obelisk was built as a focal point at its western end; the middle one, the Lime Tree Walk bordered by lime trees runs to the south side of Binning Wood and the northern one called Garlieton Walk was planted up with rhododendrons in the early 20th century.

In the late 18th century, the village near St Baldred's was moved and trees were planted in the pastures around the house. The straight edges of the woodland copses were removed and the boundaries replaced with sinuous curving fences. By the 1st edition OS plan of 1854, Big Park, Stone Park and Fore Fields had been planted around the house mainly with beech, oak, lime, Scots pine and larch. Some of these trees date back to the 18th century and others to the late 19th century. In 1878, Queen Victoria drove through the park which she described as 'really beautiful'. These parks are still grazed and their original beauty and size can be seen in the great expanse of unfenced pasture south of the house.

The seashore has been designated as a Site of Special Scientific Interest for the botanical and ornithological interest of its coastline and part of it is managed as the John Muir Country Park by East Lothian District Council.

Woodland

The majority of the woodland was planted early in the 1700s by the 6th Earl and his wife. 'Millions' of trees were said to have been planted. In 1727, Daniel Defoe wrote that he saw:

'an example of a gentleman's house ' distingush'd by groves and walks of firr-trees about them at the Earl of Hadington's house at Tinningham: where, tho' the trees are younger than at Yester, yet, they seem to follow them apace, and to thrive so much'.

The 6th Earl laid out Binning Wood with 13 rides converging at three different circles called Lord Haddington's Circle, Lady Haddington's Circle and Bruce's Circle. He also planted Little Binning Wood, Brownrigg Wood and the Wilderness Plantation near the house.

More trees were planted at the end of the 18th century and the boundaries amended in the 1780s. By 1824, J.C. Loudon in his Encyclopaedia commented that Tyninghame was 'remarkable for its fine old woods'. In 1883 the OS Gazetteer recorded that 'the estate is famed in the E. of Scotland for the extent and singular beauty of its woods and its holly-hedges' but that 'vast damage was done by a gale in 1881' which blew down over 30,000 trees including the beech around the Wilderness one of which dated back to 1623. During World Wars I and II most of the magnificent hardwood plantations were felled by order. In the 1950s the 12th Earl gradually replanted them with hardwoods based on the original early 18th century design. In 1968, another disastrous gale blew down many of the remaining hardwoods but most of these have been replanted except in the 18th century woodland strips where the few remaining trees are now over mature. Some of the plantations have been replanted with conifers.

Woodland Garden

The Woodland Garden or Wilderness was originally planted around the Bowling Green in the early 18th century by the 6th Earl. Laid out with rides and paths radiating from the Bowling Green the design lasted until the 1880s when the gale decimated the beech trees. The Wilderness was replanted with more ornamental species and during the mid-20th century, Rhododendrons, Azaleas, maples and other trees and shrubs were planted. Throughout the 20th century, the Garden has been renowned for the carpets of primroses and spring bulbs which cover the woodland floor. Over 25 different species of deciduous trees were measured most of them dating from the 1900s including a large Aesculus flava and two large Eucalyptus gunnii.

The Gardens

In the 1830s, the gardens to the south of the house were laid out in the Italian style at the same time as the house was renovated by William Burn. The two terraces are approached by several flights of steps from a stone balustraded balcony which runs along the house at the 1st floor level. Enclosed on three sides by the house, the first terrace is paved with beds filled with a medley of grey foliage and other textural plants. On the fourth side a wide path runs east/west along the whole length of the garden and opens up as another terrace on the west side of the house.

A short flight of steps leads down to the second broad terrace stretching to the ha-ha, the park and the chapel to the west. Along the retaining wall lies a colourful mixed herbaceous border. To the south of house in raised beds edged by stone, lies the Rose Garden formerly edged by yew and marked by clipped balls of laurel. It has been replanted by Lady Haddington with white and gold roses.

To the west, on the site of an old tennis court, 'Lady Haddington's Secret Garden' lives up to its name. Based on an 18th century French design, it is planted with soft colours, mainly blue and white, and many scented plants. The white lattice bower contains a statue of 'Summer' bought from Vicenza in Italy and seats are placed in other corners. Narrow grass paths lead from one bed to another, each filled with many interesting plants including old fashioned roses, Clematis, paeonies and white lilacs.

To the east of the house shrubs and small trees have been planted to hide the 'offices' behind the wall. The path leading to the Walled Garden is also bordered by tall shrubs and small trees.

Walled Garden

Built in the mid-18th century, the walled garden is rectangular with a curved northern wall, described in 1824 by Loudon as 'a good Kitchen Garden'. In 1805, pineapples were grown here in a pit, with a brick vault below, into which steam was introduced. Some of the plants were in pots, the rest planted in the soil'. In 1885 an article describes at length the type and varieties of vegetables growing there but the garden was transformed in 1891 when it was replanted mainly as a flower garden by Lord Binning, the son of the 11th Earl of Haddington.

The arched Apple Walk leads to the stone doorway and on to the gardener's cottage at the western side of the garden. In the 19th century it was over 144 yards long and planted entirely with the Keswick Codlin apple. In the 1970s it was replanted with several crab apple varieties.

The garden is divided with high yew hedges shaped with embrasures containing urns on pedestals and other statues. A wide central path running north/south has a Florentine fountain in the centre. A formal herb garden edged with low box lies at the northern end of the enfilade created by the yew hedges and fountain. On the east side of the hedges, the borders are filled with colourful perennial plants. One compartment has recently been planted as a small arboretum and the trees, grouped according to the continent of origin, are well laid out and labelled. At the northern end, some of the Victorian glasshouses are still used and the long 'hot walls' still exist. Recently the area growing vegetables has been reduced and the rest has been sown with clover.