Cullen House

http://portal.historic-scotland.gov.uk/hes/web/f?p=PORTAL:DESIGNATIONS:0

Type of Site

No information available.

Location and Setting

Cullen House is situated on the south-west edge of the town of Cullen on the flat coastal plain of the Moray Firth. The town is situated around Cullen Bay, an inlet of the North Sea. The A98(T) road forms the north-west boundary of the policies. The Deskford Burn cuts through the polices in a deep ravine to the west of the house before flowing out into Cullen Bay. To the south-west of Cullen House the Bin of Cullen rises to a height of 1059' (320m) and forms a significant feature in the surrounding landscape as well as providing a navigational marker from the sea. In addition, the policy wall, woodlands and the Temple contribute to the scenic significance of the designed landscape.

The setting of the policies on the coastal plain renders them relatively inward looking and views out to the surrounding agricultural land and woodland of the Bin of Cullen are gained from only some points within the site.

Cullen House is situated some 70' above the Deskford Burn amid some 843 acres (341ha) of designed landscape which extends north-west to the A98(T) and north- east to the town at Grant Street. To the east the policies extend to the B9018 at Lintmill and south to the woodlands of the Bin of Cullen. Reference to General Roy's map of c.1750 indicates that the designed landscape was established to this extent by this time.

More detailed information is provided on a survey plan of 1764 by Peter May, commissioned after extensive improvements had been made by the 4th and 5th Earls of Findlater after 1698. The plan shows the large formal grid of rides on the west bank of the Deskford Burn with a broad 'Principal Avenue' extending south-west in line with the house, beyond the Bridge designed by William Adam in 1744. Alan Tait (The Landscape Garden in Scotland, 1980) noted that Robert Robinson worked at Cullen in 1764 and prepared some proposals. Between 1764 and 1878, the date of the 1st edition OS map, the landscape was informalised; the woodland was extended into one of the open square fields between the grid of rides whilst, in others, the Home Farm, kitchen garden, nursery areas and a large fish pond were sited.

In the early 19th century the village was moved and an agricultural belt was extended between the policies and the new town. A long west drive was added from the house, through the wood and fields beyond to the main Elgin Road. The 1st edition OS map of 1878 incorporates the last main phase of development at Cullen c.1860 and there is little change in the structure of the landscape between then and the 2nd edition OS map of c.1910.

Landscape Components

Architectural Features

Cullen House, listed category A, dates from the 17th century with alterations made in 1711 by Smith and McGill, in 1767 by James Adam, in 1859 by David Bryce, and in 1983 by Kit Martin assisted by Douglas Forrest. The Parish Church, cruciform on the plan, is also listed category A and dates from the 16th century. The Stables, listed category B, date from the 18th century. Old Cullen House, listed B, has recently been renovated as a residence for the Earl of Seafield. Seatown Lodge stands at the north drive on the A98T. The main gate and twin lodges stand at the east entrance; they are listed A and were designed by James Adam c.1767. The Bridge over the ravine of the Deskford Burn, listed category B, was built to the design of William Adam in 1744. Lintmill Lodge stands on the drive from the village of Lintmill which lies south-east of the house. The Temple of Pomona stands on Castle Hill at the northern edge of the site. It was built in 1821 by William Robertson, apparently from a design by James Playfair made some 20 years earlier and it has recently been restored. The Home Farm Square is dated 1816.

Parkland

There are two areas of parkland at Cullen House; that to the east of the house lies on the site of an area indicated as kitchen garden on the survey plan of 1764 but which had assumed its present form by the time of the 1st edition OS map. The parkland to the west of the house lies between the Deskford Burn and the Home Farm. It is derived from three of the grid squares shown on the 1764 map which were informalised in the late 18th & early 19th century. Conifers have recently been planted along the middle part of the long west drive through the park which was added as part of the Thomas White improvements. Many deciduous species have recently been planted within the parks.

Woodland

The policy woodlands of Cullen extend along the banks of the Deskford Burn, east along the drives, and south-west across the Bin of Cullen. They appear to have been well established by the mid-18th century. Bishop Pocoke, in 1760 described 'pleasant winding walks through wood, partly in site of river and partly at a distance'.

In 1847, the Highland and Agricultural Society of Scotland recorded that some 31,686,482 young trees had been planted over 8,223 acres, and included 'Scotch firs, larch and hardwoods'. J.C. Loudon in 1824 described Cullen as being 'remarkable for its fine old woods, the late Earl being one of the most extensive planters in the country'.

The majority of the woodlands sited on the Bin of Cullen, are coniferous of mixed age between 10-50 years. Those on either side of the Deskford Burn are mixed deciduous of ages ranging from young saplings to trees of c.250 years. Many parks are overgrown by seedling birch.

The avenue along the east drive has been replanted with sycamore, horse chestnut and beech trees. Measurements of the ornamental conifers in the Pinetum area of the woodland were taken by Alan Mitchell in 1971. Further measurements taken by him in 1985, this time including ornamental deciduous trees, would indicate that many of the conifers were lost in the interim period. However, there is still a range of interesting trees here.

Woodland Garden

The wild garden is situated in the hollow to the west of Cullen House on the bank of the Deskford Burn. A circular 'pleasure ground' is marked on the site on the May survey of 1764. Alan Tait noted that the 7th Earl of Findlater issued instructions to the gardener in 1780 to 'plant American oak, chestnut, walnuts etc.' and that references were also made to a Chinese Bridge, a little moat, and the formation of a kind of shrubbery. An account of 1782 described how 'the sides of the den were covered with all kinds of trees and shrubs, through which serpentine gravel walks have been made'. Many Rhododendrons, Azaleas and other ornamental shrubs and trees were planted in the late 19th century and, as a result of a period of neglect between 1960-80, the area became considerably overgrown. The area which has been purchased with the house is in the process of being cleared and early editions of OS maps are being used to aid the restoration of footpaths.

Walled Garden

The survey plan of 1764 shows an extensive series of kitchen gardens to the east of the house. These were swept away in the improvements made c.1800 following the proposals by Thomas White and the present walled garden was established. The 1st edition OS map shows it to be laid out in a series of eight equal compartments with three ranges of glasshouses along the south face of the north wall. An account of the garden in 1954 describes it as 'flourishing in orderly profusion' under the direction of the late Countess of Seafield. Since her death in 1969, the flower garden has gone. Fruit trees remain on the walls and a new house has been incorporated in the west wall facing into the walled enclosure which is now grazed by cattle.