Holyrood

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Location and Setting

The Palace of Holyroodhouse is situated at the east end of the Royal Mile in the centre of the City of Edinburgh. To the south of the Palace lies Holyrood Park, the geological composition of which has resulted in one of the most dramatic settings of any capital city in the world. The highest point in the park is reached at Arthur's Seat, 820' (250m), which is volcanic in origin, as are many of the hills around Edinburgh. Calton Hill, which lies to the north of the Palace is a remnant of the Arthur's Seat volcano. It forms a significant feature from the garden, as do the follies which adorn it. Within the Park are many sites of great geological interest, and several can be seen from the Queen's Drive through the Park. From the top of Arthur's Seat, panoramic views are gained across Edinburgh and the whole of central Scotland; north to the Lomond and Ochil Hills in Fife, and to Ben Lawers and Ben Ledi on the edge of the Highlands, south to the Moorfoot and Lammermuir Hills, west to the Bathgate Hills and east to Traprain Law. Arthur's Seat itself can be seen as the dominant feature of the Lothian landscape from many miles away and is the most scenically significant feature of the natural landscape of Holyrood. The garden adjacent to the Palace is of little scenic significance in the immediate surroundings at ground level but views can be gained looking down into the garden from the elevated situation of Holyrood Park.

The Palace of Holyroodhouse is situated within some 682 acres (276ha) of designed landscape enclosed by a boundary wall. The designed landscape includes the Palace yard and the garden which lies to the east of the building. Holyrood Park, or the Kings Park as it is also known, is a natural landscape and an important feature of the Palace policies. It covers some 600 acres (244ha) and includes three lochs, St Margaret's, Dunsapie, and also Duddingston Loch which was incorporated into the park in 1928 having previously been part of the Prestonfield policies. Documentary evidence of the development of the landscape at Holyrood is provided by John Gordon of Rothiemay's illustration of the gardens at Holyrood in 1647, General Roy's map of c.1750, a copy of a map of Holyrood Park in 1769 made by Napier College Commerce and Technology in 1977, the 1st edition OS map of 1855, and the 2nd edition OS map of c.1900.

Comparison of these can be made with the modern OS map to show how the setting of the Park has gradually changed from the mid-18th century when the city was confined on either side of the Royal Mile. By the mid-19th century, housing and industrial development had extended south along the west side of the park and similar development has since extended along the east boundary from Abbeyhill to Duddingston. Throughout this time, the extent of the park itself has changed little.

Landscape Components

Architectural Features

Holyroodhouse Palace is listed category A. Construction of the quadrangular palace was begun by James IV in 1501, but the only surviving part of the earliest buildings is the north-west tower which dates from 1528-32. The main part of the Palace was rebuilt between 1671-79 to the design of Sir William Bruce and Robert Mylne, master mason. There is reference to work done by William Adam and Thomas Clayton but most of this work was removed between 1824-34 when alterations were made by Robert Reid. Further work was carried out in 1842, 1860-61, 1911 and 1968. Included in this A listing are the Palace Yard Gates, designed in 1920 by Sir George Washington Browne as a memorial to King Edward VII, and a bronze statue of Edward VII by H.S. Gamley. The Fountain, also listed A, stands in the Yard on the west side of the Palace. It was designed by Robert Matheson in 1859 and made by sculptor John Thomas. The Gateway and former school (Chauffeur's Quarters) is listed B. The Gateway was also designed by Robert Matheson in 1861 and forms part of the Guardroom; it leads to the Royal Mews Yard. The Chauffeur's Quarters were designed by Archibald Simpson in 1846 and are still used by the Coachmen and Grooms. The Palace Yard House, listed B, dates mainly from the 19th century. The Abbey Court House, listed B, dates originally from the 16th century but was rebuilt by Robert Reid c.1830 and further work was carried out by Robert Matheson in 1857. A sundial, listed A, stands in the garden to the north of the garden, dating from 1633.

The West Lodge, situated to the south of the Palace Yard dates from the 19th century. The East Lodge, at the entrance to the Park from Meadowbank Terrace, and the South Lodge at the entrance to the Park from Duddingston Village and St Leonard's Lodge at the south-west entrance from Park Road all date from the mid-19th century and were designed by Robert Matheson. They are all Tudor-style cottage houses. St Margaret's Well dates from the 15th century and was sited in its present position in Holyrood Park in 1859. The remains of St Anthony's Chapel, thought originally to have been a Hermitage area, are also sited on the north slopes of the Park.

Parkland

Holyrood Park lies to the south of the Palace. It is thought that this area was once covered by the Forest of Drumsheugh. The plan of 1769 shows that the Park was used at that time for pasture on the higher ground and for arable crops at the lower ground. Today, the Park is almost devoid of mature trees, except on the north-west boundary; grazing was discontinued in 1977. The highest part of the Park is the summit of Arthur's Seat 820' (250m) but there are several other smaller summits throughout. Hunter's Bog lies in the valley between Arthur's Seat and Salisbury Crags and was the site of Rifle Ranges between the 1830s and 1960.

The Queen's Drive was constructed around the Park in 1843 with four access points. Prior to this there had only been tracks through the Park. The Park has now become a through route for traffic to and from the city centre from the east side of Edinburgh. The area to the east of the gardens and the north of the Queen's Drive is laid out as playing pitches.

The Park has been designated a Site of Special Scientific Interest due to the Geological interest provided by the Arthur's Seat volcano and the Salisbury Crags Sill and to the Biological interest provided by the rare plants which occur at the cliffs. In addition there is ornithological interest at Duddingston Loch which supports a high concentration of wintering wildfowl; it was designated as a bird sanctuary in 1928. Wildfowl are also found to a lesser extent on St Margaret's Loch. Prior to being designated as a SSSI, Duddingston Loch had an established Curling Club, which was founded in 1795.

The Gardens

The Palace garden extends north to the service yards on Abbey Hill and south to the Queen's Drive and is bounded by a haha on the east side. The ruins of Holyrood Abbey lie to the north-east of the Palace and a garden feature has been formed from the excavated remains of the choir and east conventual range. The gardens have been remodelled in recent years incorporating the ornamental trees which have been planted over the years since the mid-19th century. There are extensive lawns with herbaceous borders and island shrub beds. The planting within the shrub beds is designed to provide colour in the summer when garden parties and other events are held. One of the herbaceous borders was planted for Her Majesty's Silver Jubilee in 1977 with silver foliage plants. The Royal Company of Archers practise archery in the garden in summer.

Within the nursery area to the north-east of the Palace are the many glasshouses which contain a wonderful display of pot plants grown for the Palace and Castle. Bedding plants are also propagated here and this nursery also supplies several gardens under the care of the Historic Buildings and Monuments Directorate.